Draft procedures 4/14/2023
This is an experimental binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of strong paper or card with not enough margin to make a either a good folded-edge binding, or to be glued/taped into a signature. This is not a good binding for thin, flexible unbound sheets (i.e. normal copier/printer paper) --although two taped/glued together sheets of copier/printer paper seems strong enough.
Supplies:
Three curved (recommended) or straight binder needles; light-weight linen binding thread (thinner than pamphlet binding thread), beeswax and card-weight paper or pamphlet board to cut for covers; and Jade or other bookbinder acid-free PVA glue; clear binding tape; cloth binding tape (not pre-glued).
Pros:
Opens flat for playing music
No gutter for music symbols to disappear within
Pages won’t be lost as easily as unbound sheets of paper
If one thread breaks, the other 2 threads will still keep the score together
Cons:
Having three needles of thread to keep track of is tricky
It’s a complicated binding to learn
The swell at spine & exposed threads inside pages can cause lower durability
No long term tests, that I know of, for its durability as a music binding
Detailed Instructions:
1-Cut two covers to the same size as the score pages, since this binding is unsupported. If score will be housed in a pocket of pamphlet binder or a folder (recommended), use card-weight paper; otherwise, use pamphlet board.
2-Use archival clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge were the binding will attach (left or right margin) of the pages (but do not tape the two covers). Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, flip the page over, smooth out bubbles & ripples with a bone folder, then trim off the excess tape on each side.
3-Measure & select where to pierce the holes: no more than 1 inch from the spine edge or top/bottom, but no less than 1/8 inch,: check each page to make sure that no holes will be obscuring or taking out any musical notes, clefs, staffs, keys, and miscellaneous music symbols.
4-Mark the three holes on the cover, spaced evenly along the inside margin (1 inch to 1/8th inch), and punch with an awl or small hole punch. Use that page as a template to punch the remaining pages (about 1 to 3 at a time depending on tool). Each hole is considered one station.
5-Estimate how much thread will be needed for each hole (station): I’ve been measuring out 1 inch per page in the score (and count both covers too). You will need to measure out three threads; one for each needle.
Wax the threads, and thread your three curved needles. Straight needles can be used, but they make this binding a little harder.
6-Get set up for binding: best done at the edge of a table or desk, with all pages nearby stacked in order.
I like to set the remaining pages stacked on end, so I simply have to flip them down to the table top (without worrying about getting them out of order - or wrong side up.
7-Start with the cover, holes towards you. From the inside (or the side currently facing up), put the needle through the first hole to the outside (bottom) of cover; tighten the threads (gently), and tie the threads together into a knot close to the inner hole. I usually tie 1 or 2 more knots in the same place, for extra security. Repeat this step for the next 2 stations.
8-Then, take the needle thru the cover, this time from below the cover to the inside, and exit to the left of the first threads. There should be two loops visible on the outside of the cover. repeat for remaining holes.
9. First page: set the next page on top of the cover,
a-Put the needle through the first page, from the top, coming out between the first page and the cover. Exit to the left of the other threads:
b-Gently tighten the threads, taking care not to tear the hole.
c-From the top, push the needle between the first page and cover, catching the loops, and exiting to the left of the threads: this is the locking stitch. Gently tighten the thread, then repeat step 9.a-c for the next two stations.
10-Set the second page on top,
a-Then put the needle through the first station hole from the top, exiting between the 1st and 2nd pages, and tighten the threads. Always exit to the left of the threads.
b-Then do the locking stitch, between the 2nd page, and the 1st page, inserting the needle from right to left, catching the loops, and gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations, remembering to go between the first page and cover for the locking stitch, right to left.
11-Continue as above, setting the 3rd page on top, a-inserting the needle through the hole from the top, while exiting between the 3rd and 2nd pages. But then, b-for the locking stitch, go two pages down (which puts the needle between the second page and first page this time), exiting to the left as usual. Remember to gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations to finish the 3rd page.
12. Continue the third page pattern for the rest of the score, putting each page on top; a-inserting the needle thru each hole from the top to bottom of page, and exiting between the current and previous page; then b-doing the locking stitch, two pages down, right to left; and tightening each thread between each stitch.
You should start seeing a chain pattern forming at each station.
13.-When you reach the back cover:
a-Go thru the top of the back cover, exiting between the cover and last page; go down two pages to do the locking stitch exiting to the left; but then: put the needle thru the hole from the top of the cover to the inside of cover and last page (and stay inside).
b-Open the cover and pull the thread tight (gently).
c-Then tie a knot close to the station hole in the cover, and tie one to two more knots to completely secure it, and tighten all the knots. Do the same for the next two stations, then trim the ends.
14-To increase longevity, I glue cloth binding tape over the spine to protect the spine stitches during shelving and general usage.
a. Measure the thickness of the spine without compressing it.
b-Cut a piece of cloth binding tape to the same size as the height of the score. Next, mark the spine thickness in the center of the tape; this portion will be left unglued to form a hollow spine.
c-Put wax paper under the score. Spread PVA glue on one side of the tape (but not the spine part); try not to get glue in the center. Insert another wax paper between the cover and the first page, then press down tape on the front with the score closed, then once the glue is slightly set, turn the score over and spread glue on the other side of the tape, then insert wax paper between the cover & last page, and press down the tape to the back cover. The station threads may form slight swellings.
d-With the score still closed, press it under a book or two, until the binding glue has set permanently.
15. Optionally: Measure out a strip of archival clear book tape and press over the threads on the inside front cover and inside back cover to protect the knots and the starting and finishing threads.
Done! …And ready to be cataloged & labeled.
Main sources for this workflow:
Smith’s sewing single sheets / Keith A. Smith. Non-adhesive binding, volume 4. Keith A. Smith Books, 2001.
DIY single sheet bookbinding tutorial / Sea Lemon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM
Single Sheet DIY Sketchbooks - Three Methods - My Thoughts and Process / Arlee Bean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFb8k9y0C2E
Lots of (so much!) practice.
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