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Place holder: under massive construction

We are currently experimenting with using this binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of paper, that don’t have enough left margin to make a either a folded-edge binding or to be glue or taped into a signature. Do not use this binding on thin (like regular copier paper) sheets. (Although glued together pages may be fine.). Also, keep in mind this single-sheet binding is untested as to longevity, since it was invented (or possibly, just rediscovered) very recently.

1-Covers should be the same size as the score pages, since the binding is unsupported. The pages will need to rest on the shelf at same level as the cover sheets.

2-Use clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge (left margin) of the pages. Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, flip the page over, smooth it down, then trim off the excess on each side.

3-Figure out where the holes can be made: check each page to make sure that no holes will obscuring or taking out any musical symbols, staffs, keys, etc.

Holes and an awl

4-Mark three holes on the first page or cover, spaced evenly along the gutter, no more than 1 inch from the spine edge, but no less than 1/8 inch, and punch with an awl or small hole punch. Use that page as a template to punch the remaining pages (about 1 to 3 at a time depending on tool). Each hole is counted as one station.

5-Estimate how much thread will be needed for each hole (station), wax the threads, then thread your three curved needles.

6-Lay down the cover, holes towards you. (I like to set the remaining pages on end, so I simply have to flip them down to the table top without worrying about getting them out of order.)

From the inside (or top), put the needle through the first hole, to the outside (bottom); tighten the threads, and tie the threads together into a knot close to the inner hole. I usually tie two more knots in the same place, for extra security. Repeat this step for each station.

7-Then, take the needle thru the cover, this time from the outside to inside, and exit to the left of the first threads.

8-There should be two loops visible on the outside of the cover.

9-Put the first page on top of the cover; and run the needle through the first page from the top, coming out between the first page and the cover. Exit to the left of the other threads.

10-Gently tighten the threads, taking care not to tear the hole.

11-Take the needle between the first page and cover, exiting to the left of the threads: this is the locking stitch. Gently tighten the thread, then repeat step 9-11 for the next two stations.

12-Set the second page on top, then put the needle through the first station hole from the top, exiting between the 1st and 2nd pages, and tighten the threads.

[placeholder: second page: locking stitch]

13-Then do the locking stitch, but once more, take the needle between the first page and the cover, from right to left, and tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations, remembering to go between the first page and cover for the locking stitch.

[placeholder: third page]

14-Lay the 3rd page on top, and put the needle through the hole from the top, exiting between the 3rd and 2nd pages. For the locking stitch, go two pages down, and put the needle between the second page and first page, exiting to the left as usual. Remember to tighten the threads.

Repeat step 14 for the next two stations.

16. Continue the third page pattern for the rest of the score, putting each page on top, then sewing down thru each hole from the top exiting between the current and previous page; then doing the locking stitch two pages down, right to left; while remembering to tighten each thread between each stitch.

17-You should start seeing a chain pattern forming at each station.

17-At the back cover, continue the same pattern, go thru the top, exiting between the cover and last page, then go down two pages and do the locking stitch. But then go thru the hole again, from the top to the inside (and stay there).

18-Open the cover and pull the thread tight.

19-Then tie a knot close to the hole in the cover, tie two more knots to completely secure it, and tighten all the knots.

20-Do the same for the next two stations, then trim off the ends.

21. There will be 2 loops showing on the back cover.

For our music scores, we will be gluing cloth binding tape over the spine on the outside to protect the spine stitches.

22. Cut a piece of binding tape to the same size as the height of the score. Next measure the thickness of spine face without compressing it and mark it on the tape; this portion will be left unglued to form a hollow spine.

23. Spread glue on each side (but not the hollow part); try not to get glue in the center. Press down tape on the front, then turn the score over and press down the tape on the back cover. The threads will form slight swellings at each station.

With the score still closed, press it under a book or two, until the binding glue has set.

Once, dry the score should open flat, without any interference from the taped spine.

24. Final step: cover the knotted ends of the threads on the inside front cover and inside back cover with clear book tape. Ta da!

Sources:

DIY single sheet bookbinding tutorial / Sea Lemon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM

Single Sheet DIY Sketchbooks - Three Methods - My Thoughts and Process / Arlee Bean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFb8k9y0C2E

Smith’s sewing single sheets / Keith A. Smith. Non-adhesive binding, volume 4. Keith A. Smith Books, 2001.

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