Draft procedures 4/14/2023
I’ve done some experiments using this This is an experimental binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of strong paper or card with not enough margin to make a either a good folded-edge binding, or to be glued/taped into a signature. This is not a good binding for thin, flexible unbound sheets (i.e. normal copier/printer paper) --although two taped/glued together sheets of copier/printer paper seems strong enough. (See, also Smith’s sewing single sheets, for excellent, generally more complicated bindings.) This simplified binding has some swelling at the spine from the stitches double loops; so I use lighter weight linen thread to minimize it.
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2-Use archival clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge (left or right margin) of the pages (but not the two covers). Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, flip the page over, smooth down tape, press out bubbles & ripples with a bone folder, then trim off the excess tape on each side.
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3-Figure out where the holes can be made: no more than 1 inch from the spine edge or top/bottom, but no less than 1/8 inch,: check each page to make sure that no holes will be obscuring or taking out any musical notes, clefs, staffs, keys, and miscellaneous music symbols.
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10-Set the second page on top,
10.a-Then put the needle through the first station hole from the top, exiting between the 1st and 2nd pages, and tighten the threads. Always exit to the left of the threads.
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10.b-Then do the locking stitch, between the 1st 2nd page, and the cover 1st page, inserting the needle from right to left, and gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations, remembering to go between the first page and cover for the locking stitch, right to left.
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13.-Finally, when you reach the back cover, again,
13.a-go thru the top cover as usual, exiting between the cover and last page, then go down two pages and do the locking stitch; but next: put the needle from the top of the cover to the inside of the cover and last page (and stay there).
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13.b-Open the cover and pull the thread tight (gently).
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13.c-Then tie a knot close to the hole in the cover, tie one-two more knots to completely secure it, and tighten all the knots.
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14-Do the same for the next two stations, then trim off the ends. There will be 2 loops per station on the back cover.
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showing at each station.
15-To increase longevity, we’ll I glue cloth binding tape over the spine to protect the spine stitches during shelving and patron use.
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c-Put wax paper under the score. Spread PVC glue on one side of the tape (but not the spine part); try not to get glue in the center. Insert wax paper between the cover and the first page, then press down tape on the front with the score closed, then once the glue is slightly set, turn the score over and spread glue on the next other side of the tape, then insert wax paper between the cover & last page, and press down the tape to the back cover. The station threads may form slight swellings.
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16. Finally: Measure out a strip of archival clear book tape and press over the threads on the inside front cover and inside back cover to protect the knotted the knots and the starting and finishing threads.
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Main sources for this workflow:
Smith’s sewing single sheets / Keith A. Smith. Non-adhesive binding, volume 4. Keith A. Smith Books, 2001.
DIY single sheet bookbinding tutorial / Sea Lemon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM
Single Sheet DIY Sketchbooks - Three Methods - My Thoughts and Process / Arlee Bean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFb8k9y0C2E
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Lots of practice.