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I’ve done some experiments using this binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of stribg paper, with not enough margin to make a either a folded-edge binding, or to be glued/taped into a signature. This is not a good binding for thin, flexible unbound sheets (i.e. normal copier/printer paper). Although two taped together sheets of copier/printer paper seems strong enough. And, yes, this is the simplified version of Coptic single sheet binding. (See, for instance, Smith’s sewing single sheets instructions, which are very good bindings, but complicated and have a lot more swelling at the spines.) This binding has some swelling at the spine from the double loops of the thread, but not as much as regular Coptic single sheet binding methods; however, we will be using lighter weight linen thread to minimize the spine swell.
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Supplies: 3 curved (recommended) or straight binder needles; light-weight linen binder thread (thinner than pamphlet binding thread), beeswax and card-weight paper or pamphlet board to cut for covers.
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Having three needles of thread to keep track of is tricky
It’s a complicated binding to learn
The swell at spine & exposed threads inside pages might can cause lower durability
Unsupported sewing; with no long term testing of strengthtests, that I know of, for durability as music binding
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1-The Cut two covers should be cut to the same size as the score pages, since the this binding is unsupported. (The pages will need to rest on the shelf along with the cover boards.) If score will be housed in a pocket of pamphlet binder or a folder (recommended), use card-weight paper; otherwise, use pamphlet board.
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2-Use archival clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge (left or right margin) of the pages. Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, flip the page over, smooth down tape, press out bubbles & ripples with a bone folder, then trim off the excess on each side.
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4-Mark three holes on the first page or cover, spaced evenly along the gutter (1 inch to 1/8th inch), and punch with an awl or small hole punch. Use that page as a template to punch the remaining pages (about 1 to 3 at a time depending on tool). Each hole is counted as one station.
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8-Then, take the needle thru the cover, this time from below the cover to the inside, and exit to the left of the first threads. There should be two loops visible on the outside of the cover.
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9. First page: set the next page on top of the cover:,
a-Put the needle through the first page, from the top, coming out between the first page and the cover. Exit to the left of the other threads:
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9.b-Gently tighten the threads, taking care not to tear the hole.
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9.c-From the top, push the needle between the first page and cover, exiting to the left of the threads: this is the locking stitch.Gently tighten the thread, then repeat step 9.a-c for the next two stations.
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10.a-Set the second page on top, then
10.a-Then put the needle through the first station hole from the top, exiting between the 1st and 2nd pages, and tighten the threads. Always exit to the left of
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the threads.
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10.b-Then do the locking stitch, between the 1st page and the cover, inserting the needle from right to left, and gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations, remembering to go between the first page and cover for the locking stitch, right to left.
11-Continue as above, laying the 3rd page on top, inserting the needle through the hole from the top, while exiting between the 3rd and 2nd pages. But then, for the locking stitch, go two pages down , (which puts the needle between the second page and first page this time), exiting to the left as usual. Remember to gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations to finish the 3rd page.
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You should start seeing a chain pattern forming at each station.
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13.a-Finally, when you reach the back cover, again,
13.a-go thru the top cover as usual, exiting between the cover and last page, then go down two pages and do the locking stitch; but next: put the needle from the top of the cover to the inside of the cover and last page (and stay there).
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13.b-Open the cover and pull the thread tight (gently).
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13.c-Then tie a knot close to the hole in the cover, tie two more knots to completely secure it, and tighten all the knots.
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14-Do the same for the next two stations, then trim off the ends. There will be 2 loops per station on the back cover.
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c-Put wax paper under the score. Spread PVC glue on one side of the tape (but not the spine part); try not to get glue in the center. Insert wax paper between the cover and the first page, then press down tape on the front with the score closed, then once the glue is slightly set, turn the score over and glue the next side of the tape, then insert wax paper between the cover & last page, and press down the tape to the back cover. The station threads may form slight swellings.
d-With the score still closed, press it under a book or two, until the binding glue has set permanently.
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16. Finally: lay the Measure out a strip of archival clear book tape and press over the threads on the inside front cover and inside back cover to protect the knotted threads.
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