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We have done some experiments using this binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of paper, that don’t have enough left margin to make a either a folded-edge binding, or to be glued/taped into a signature. Not a good binding for thin, flexible sheets (i.e. normal copier/printer paper) sheets. (Although two taped together sheets of copier/printer paper seems heavy enough.)

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Supplies: 3 curved or straight binder needles; lighter-weight binder thread (than for the pamphlet binding), and card-weight paper or pamphlet board to cut for covers.

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Pros:

  • Opens flat for playing music

  • No gutter for music to disappear within

  • Pages won’t be lost as easily as unbound sheets of paper

Cons:

  • Thicker spine can lead to & exposed thread might have lower durability

  • Unsupported sewing, with untested strength (spine protection should help)Three ; no long term testing of strength

  • The three needles of thread are easily tangled during bindingcan get tangled if not careful

  • It’s a tad complicated to learn

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1-The two covers should be cut to the same size as the score pages, since the binding is unsupported. (The pages will need to rest on the shelf along with the cover boards.)

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If score will be housed in a pocket of pamphlet binder or a folder (recommended), use card-weight paper; otherwise, use pamphlet board.

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2-Use archival clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge (left or right margin) of the pages. Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, flip the page over, smooth out bubbles & ripples, then trim off the excess on each side.

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4-Mark three holes on the first page or cover, spaced evenly along the gutter (1 inch to 1/8th inch), and punch with an awl or small hole punch. Use that page as a template to punch the remaining pages (about 1 to 3 at a time depending on tool). Each hole is counted as one station.

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5-Estimate how much thread will be needed for each hole (station): I’ve been measuring out 1 inch per page (count both covers too). You will need to measure out three threads. Wax the threads, and thread your three curved needles. Straight needles can be used, but they make this binding a little harder.

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6-Set up for binding: best done at the edge of a table or desk, with remaining pages nearby stacked in order.

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(I like to set the remaining pages stacked on end, so I simply have to flip them down to the table top (without worrying about getting them out of order - or upside down.)

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7-Start with the cover, holes towards you, at the edge of a table. From the inside, put the needle through the first hole to the outside (bottom) of cover; tighten the threads (gently), and tie the threads together into a knot close to the inner hole. I usually tie 1 -or 2 more knots in the same place, for extra security. Repeat this step for the next 2 stations.

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8-Then, take the needle thru the cover, this time from below the cover to the inside, and exit to the left of the first threads. There should be two loops visible on the outside of the cover.

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9. First page: set the next page on top of the cover:

a-Put the needle through this the first page, from the top, coming out between the first page and the cover. Exit to the left of the other threads:

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9.c-From the top, push the needle between the first page and cover, exiting to the left of the threads: this is the locking stitch. Gently tighten the thread, then repeat step 9.a-c for the next two stations.

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10.a-Set the second page on top, then put the needle through the first station hole from the top, exiting between the 1st and 2nd pages, and tighten the threads. Always exit to the left of any threads.

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10.b-Then do the locking stitch, but going down to between he the 1st page & and the cover, inserting the needle from right to left, and gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations, remembering to go between the first page and cover for the locking stitch, right to left.

11-Lay Continue as above, laying the 3rd page on top, and again, inserting the needle through the hole from the top and , while exiting between the 3rd and 2nd pages. For But then, for the locking stitch, go two pages down, which puts the needle between the second page and first page, exiting to the left as usual. Remember to gently tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations to finish the 3rd page.

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12. Continue the third page pattern for the rest of the score, putting each page on top, then inserting down thru each hole from the top, exiting between the current and previous page; then doing the locking stitch two pages down, right to left; while remembering to tighten tightening each thread between each stitch.

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13.a-Finally, when you reach the back cover, again, go thru the top cover as usual, exiting between the cover and last page, then go down two pages and do the locking stitch; but next: put the needle from the top of the cover to the inside of the cover and last page (and stay there).

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14-Do the same for the next two stations, then trim off the ends. There will be 2 loops per station on the back cover.

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15-For better durability, To increase longevity, we’ll glue cloth binding tape over the spine to protect the spine stitches during shelving and patron use.

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c-Put wax paper under the score. Spread glue on one side of the tape (but not the spine part); try not to get glue in the center. Press Insert wax paper between the cover and the first page, then press down tape on the front with the score closed, then once the glue is slightly set, turn the score over and glue the next side of the tape, then insert wax paper between the cover & first last page, and press down the tape to the back cover. The station threads may form slight swellings.

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16. Finally: cover the threads on the inside front and back cover with clear book tape to protect the knots.

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Main sources for this workflow:

DIY single sheet bookbinding tutorial / Sea Lemon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM

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