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We have done some experiments using this binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of paper, that don’t have enough left margin to make a either a folded-edge binding, or to be glued/taped into a signature. Not a good binding for thin, flexible sheets (i.e. normal copier/printer paper) sheets. (Although glued two taped together double sheets of copier/printer paper is seems heavy enough.)
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Supplies:
3 curved or straight binder needles
Binding thread
Card-wieght paperr Pamphlet board
Pros:
The score will open Opens flat for playing music
No gutter for music to disappear within
Pages won’t be lost as easily as unbound sheets of paper
Cons:
This binding has swelling Swelling at the spine , & slight gaps between the pages, depending on size/weight of linen threadsUntested as to longevity and durability (covering the spine & cover ends can cause damage, if unprotected
Unsupported sewing, with untested durability (spine protection should help)
Thin paper won’t hold up to this bindingComplicated to learn
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1-Covers should be the same size as the score pages, since the binding is unsupported. The pages will need to rest on the shelf at same level as along with the cover sheetsboards.
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2-Use clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge (left margin) of the pages. Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, flip the page over, smooth out bubbles & ripples, then trim off the excess on each side.
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3-Figure out where the holes can be made; : no more than 1 inch from the spine edge or top/bottom, but no less than 1/8 inch,: check each page to make sure that no holes will be obscuring or taking out any musical notes, clefs, staffs, keys, and miscellaneous music symbols.
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4-Mark three holes on the first page or cover, spaced evenly along the gutter (no more than 1 inch from the spine edge, but no less than to 1/8 8th inch), and punch with an awl or small hole punch. Use that page as a template to punch the remaining pages (about 1 to 3 at a time depending on tool).
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