Place holder: under massive construction
For We are currently experimenting with using this binding for unbound music scores printed on single leaves of paper, that don’t have enough gutter ( left margin ) to make a either a folded-edge binding or to be glued glue or taped into a signature. Do not use this binding on thin (like regular copier paper) sheets. (Although glued together pages may be fine.). Also, keep in mind this single-sheet binding is untested as to longevity, since it was invented (or possibly, just rediscovered) very recently.
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1-Covers should be the same size as the score pages, since the binding is unsupported, and ; so the pages will need to rest on the shelf at same level as the cover sheets.
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2-Use clear book tape to strengthen the gutter edge (left margin) of the pages. Cut tape slightly larger than page length and place half over the front, press it down, then flip the page over, smooth it down, then trim off the excess on each side.
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3-Figure out where the holes can be punchedmade: check each page to make sure that no holes are close enough to the music to obscure or punch will obscuring or taking out any musical symbols, staffs, keys, etc.
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4-Mark three holes on one of the coversthe first page or cover, spaced evenly along the gutter, no more than 1 inch from the edge, but no less than 1/4 inch, and punch with an awl or small hole punch. Use the cover that page as a template to punch the remaining pages (about 1 to 3 at a time depending on tool). Each hole will be is counted as one station.
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5-Estimate how much thread will be needed for each hole (station), wax the threads, then thread your three curved needles.
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6-Lay down the cover, holes towards you. Put . I like to set the remaining pages on end, so I simply have to flip them down to the table top without worrying about getting them out of order. Run the needle through each the first hole, from the inside (top) to outside (bottom), tighten the threads, and tie the threads together into a knot close to the inner hole. I usually tie two more knots in the same place, to be on the safe sidefor extra longevity. Repeat this step for each station (hole).
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7-Then, take the needle thru the cover, this time from the outside to inside, and exit to the left of the other threads.
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8-There should be two loops visible on the outside of the cover.
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9-Put the 1st first page on top of the cover; and put the needle through the first page from the top, coming out between the first page and the cover. Exit to the left of the other threads.
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10-Gently tighten the threads, taking care not to tear the hole.
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11-Take the needle between the first page and cover, exiting to the left of the threads. This : this is the locking stitch. Gently tighten the thread, then repeat step 9-11 for the next two stations.
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12-Put Set the 2nd second page on top, then put the needle through the first station hole from the top, exiting between the 1st and 2nd pages, and tighten the threads.
[placeholder: second page: locking stitch]
13-Then do the locking stitch, but once more, take the needle between the first page and the cover, from right to left, and tighten the threads. Repeat for the next two stations, remembering to go between the first page and cover for the locking stitch.
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21. There will be 2 loops showing on the back cover.
For our music scores, we will be gluing cloth binding tape over the spine on the outside to protect the spine stitches.
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22. Cut a piece of binding tape to the same size as the height of the score. Next measure the thickness of spine face without compressing it; this portion will be left unglued to form a hollow spine.
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With the score still closed, press it under a book or two, until the binding glue has set.
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Once, dry the score should open flat, without any interference from the taped spine.
24. Final step: cover the knoted ends of the threads on the inside front cover and inside back cover. Ta da!
Sources:
DIY single sheet bookbinding tutorial / Sea Lemon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM
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